London Wine Fair 2008 |
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DAY ONE The wines are a complete contrast to the subtle and delicate Marlborough Pinot Noirs. They are dark in colour, with a rich fruit character and lots of spice. The young wines are fruity without being jammy, and with bottle age rapidly develop a spicy maturity. The winemakers put this character down to the big temperature differences between day and night, and to the very strong ultra-violet radiation – Otago is under the Antarctic ‘hole in the ozone layer’. Currently the only snag is that the oldest wines are about eight or nine years old, with new vineyards being planted every year. The wines show well on the nose and in the immediate attack, but most of them are rather green and hollow in the middle of the palate. The most advanced wine was in its sixth vintage - proudly stated on the front label. The depth and length of this wine were completely different to those in their first or second vintage. This will be remedied as the vines mature. I suspect that the longer term snag will be that the wines will start to attract very high prices! L A Cetto – Baja California DAY TWO Unfortunately the winemaker of the Williamsburg Winery in Virginia had been called back to the US. This has been in operation near the tourist attraction of Colonial Williamsburg since 1985. Various Bordeaux blends are produced, with a distinctive leafy character. Oregon Pinot Noir In contrast to the the wines of Central Otago I tasted yesterday, the Oregon Pinots have a restrained fruit character, with a variety of aftertastes depending on the soil type. Those grown on volcanic soils have a warm, mineral character, while the vineyards on sandstone (only a few hundred metres away) have a lighter, flowery finish. South America Even three years ago, Uruguay was showing only old-style intensely hard Tannats, and a few clumsy commercial blends. Now there are winemakers who have learned to control the tannins and produce fruity and well-structured serious red wines which should sell well. Brazil has further to go. Even the serious producers on the same latitude as Uruguay tend to have wines which owe more to the barrel than to the fruit. I suspect this is partly due to young vines, but they do not yet seem to have found a grape variety that suits their terroir. Argentina continues to produce fine wines, particularly Malbec and Malbec blends. The wines from the southern Patagonia region (Neuquen and Rio Negro) are particularly good and becoming more widely available. They are more subtle than the wines from the warmer regions and show mineral and vegetal characteristics on the finish even when very young. DAY THREE Greece and Turkey While Greece has been producing international quality wines for many years, the Turkish fine wine industry is in its infancy. Samples seen ranged up to good commercial in quality, but many of the wines lack intensity and interest. Turkey is, however, an area to watch with interest. The Greek native varieties continue to show better for red wines than for white, apart from the excellent Assyrtikos from Santorini. In reds, the Agiorgikito wines produce full bodied, deep fruity wines, with Xinomavro making lighter wines in the northern regions. There was a top class old, sweet Mavrodaphne of Patras from Achaia Clauss. A Chat with Chester Osborn Chester was showing his sparkling red Chambourcin, from a vineyard he planted on very poor soil a few years ago. This is very dry and acidic, with some aging potential. There were several new blends from vineyard acquisitions, generally in the Rhone style. In 2008, he is making a rose, but probably only for the Australian restaurant trade. This brings the number of bottlings to over thirty. There is a full list at www.darenberg.com.au Madiera
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